Leh

Leh has quite a few interesting places on offer. You could start with the captivating Leh Palace that rises from the edge of a hill overlooking the town and stretches out towards the indigo sky. Irrevocably reminiscent of a picture-postcard of Lhasa’s Potala Palace, this deserted edifice has a definite mystical quality about it.

Please Click Here to Big PictureThe Palace was built in the middle of the 16th century by King Singe Namgyal and still belongs to the royal family that now lives in the Stok Palace. The nine-storeyed monument has gone to seed, so don’t visit the site expecting too much. You might not be able to get in at all as the palace remains locked, unless of course you ask around and find a monk who can open it for you. The Palace has a museum with some tangkhas (painted or embroidered scrolls) and paintings amongst other things. The view from the monastery is quite impressive. Roosted above the Leh Palace is the Namgyal Tsemo Gompa (monastery). The enigmatic stark structure stands on a steep hill looming over the town. Built in 1430 by the Namgyal rulers, the red monastery has some frescos, Buddhist scriptures, idols and a massive statue of the Maitreya Buddha (future Buddha). The splendid view from the top alone is well worth the effort. The striking Shanti Stupa is a recent structure. A Japanese who harboured the ambition of spreading Buddhism across the world, had it constructed in 1985 with aid from the Japanese Government. The stupa is connected by a ‘motorable’ road and a steep flight of stairs. Once on top, you can stop for a snack in the tea shop, then relax and enjoy the panoramic view of the chain of mountains and the peaceful little village of Changspa with typical Ladakhi houses built along a gushing stream, and the towering Namgyal Tsemo in the distance. There is a rudimentary Sauna Spa not far from the Shanti Stupa in Changspa Village that offers a soft drink in the sauna! The striking green and white Leh Mosque in the Main Bazaar is also worth a visit. The mosque is open only to men. This is also a good place to find out about the possibility of doing voluntary work with various organizations. If interested, inquire at the reception centre or simply check the information board. Leh offers some delightful walks, especially around Changspa Village. Just take any of the cobbled lanes in the village and feel free to carry on as you please. It is impossible to get lost in this tiny village.

The lanes and by-lanes curve around colourful Ladakhi houses with brightly-painted windows overlooking little gardens blossoming with cosmos, poppies and hollyhocks. The village is dotted with prayer wheels where you might see some locals turning the symbolic wheel. A network of narrow canals channel the river water to all parts of the village, so you can never be far from the gurgling sound of flowing water and patches of wild irises growing around the banks of the canal. Bunches of little children with sunburn rosy cheeks and sparkling eyes will greet you all around the village with the all-encompassing greeting jule (hello, bye, thank-you and please) that you must be all too familiar with by now. In case you do feel a little lost or disorientated, just ask any local and he will be happy to show you the way.

Kargil & Zanskar

The western parts of Ladakh comprising several river valleys, drained and formed by the Himalayan tributaries of the high Indus, constitutes Kargil district. The Suru and Zanskar valleys form a great trough enclosed by the Himalayas and the Zanskar range. One of the most beautiful regions of Ladakh, SURU VALLEY is the heart land of Kargil district. Nestling along the northern foothills of the GREAT HIMALAYAn wall, it extends from Kargil southwards to Rangdum. The drive into Suru valley takes one through picturesque sprawling villages and monasteries like SANKU, KARTSE, PANIKAR, PARKACHIK & RANGDUM. Rangdum is the last inhabited region in the Suru valley. From Rangdum the valley rises to 4,400 metres (14,436 ft) at Pensi-la, the gateway into Zanskar. Kargil, the only town in the Suru valley, was an important staging post on the routes of the trade caravans before 1947, being more or less equidistant, at about 230 kilometres from Srinagar, Leh, Skardu, and Padum. The geographical isolation and the esoteric nature of Buddhism practiced in ZANSKAR has enabled its inhabitants to preserve their identity, so that Zanskar is the least interfered with microcosm of Leh. Though the population of Muslims & Buddhists is almost same, there are several villages with famous old monasteries at PADUM, SANI, KARSHA, STONG-DE, ZANGLA, MUNE, PHUCKTAL etc.

Changthang

The descendents of Tibetan nomads known as CHANG-PAS, inhabit this part of Ladakh. These people continue to live a nomadic life by wandering along with their livestock. These people normally trade in Pashmina, meat, wool, butter, cheese etc. The Chang-pas live in Yak hair tents which they erect wherever they camp and these tents are know as REBO. The main attraction of this area is PANGONG, TSOMORIRI & TSOKAR lakes. Pangong, Tsomoriri and Tsokar all have extremely fragile ecosystems and provide habitants some fragile species of birds.

PANGONG lake located at an altitude of around 4200m is a over 140kms. in length and 7kms. at its widest point. SPANGMIK is the furthest point to which the tourists are permitted. It’s around 7kms. along the southern shore from the head from the head of the lake. The lake has no outlet so the water has high salt and mineral content. Because of this the lake cannot support aquatic life, hence it is distinctive.
It affords a spectacular view of the mountains of the CHANGCHENMO range to the north. Spangmik and a scattering of other small villages along the lake’s southern shore are the summer homes of a scanty population of Chang-pa, the nomadic herds people of Tibet and south-east Ladakh. The Pangong Chang-pa cultivate sparse crops of barley and peas in summer. It’s in winter that they unfold their REBO (tents) and take their flocks of sheep and Pashmina goats out to distant pastures.

TSOMORIRI & TSOKAR lakes are to the south-east of Leh in Rupshu valley. The true beauty of the region lies in its vast untamed space, wildlife & nomadic inhabitants.

Brackish Tsomoriri lake is surrounded by snow-topped barren mountains. This unique habitant attracts many migratory water birds including brahminy ducks and black-neck cranes and the rare bareheaded geese.
Tsokar is a salt lake surrounded by white heaps of saline deposits in a vast dusty bowl surrounded by barren mountains. There is a freshwater lake to the south-east of Tsokar called STARTSAPUK Tso and herds of Kiang (Tibetan wild ass) often graze on the plain nearby.
KORZOK, situated at an altitude of around 4500m with its dozen or so houses and its Gompa appearing like a mirage among the barren hills, is the only permanent settlement in Rupshu. Otherwise the region is inhabited only by nomadic Chang-pa herds people. The few barley fields at Korzok must be among the highest cultivation in the world.

Nubra Valley

South of Leh and snuggling between the Karakoram and the Ladakh ranges lies Nubra, comprising the Shayok valley and the valley of the Nubra river. The two rivers between them manage to keep the region green with dense sea buckthorn growing in abundance on the slopes.

Nubra, which means ‘green’ is the lowest of all the valleys in Ladakh, varying between 3048m at Hundar and 3231m at Panamik. You reach Nubra crossing over KHARDONGLA pass 5600m, considered to be the highest motorable pass of the world. Nubra has a number of large settlements besides DISKIT, which is the largest and has a sixteenth century monastery and numerous apricot orchards. HUNDAR is a nice small village around sand dunes and has a small population of Bactrian camels, shaggy double-humped animals. These animals were used as pack animals during the trade days with Central Asia. The villages of TIRIT, SUMUR, PANAMIK proceeds up Nubra river. SAMSTALING monastery is a famous one situated on the mountain side just above Sumur.

Indus Valley

This is a large valley formed by the main channel of the Indus River as it flows across Ladakh. It includes parts of Leh district, the Skardu region and the vast cold desert beyond. This valley consists of large stretches of undulating lands interspersed by high mountains across which there are many passes.

 The Indus Valley is the soul of Ladakh and is strategically the most important part. Its borders touch those of Pakistan, Afghanistan, China and India.

Passing through a vast inhabited wilderness at the very heart of the Himalayas, the Indus valley region comprises of some of the least explored places of Ladakh. A motorable road along the old caravan route through the hills between Likkir and Temisgong, makes a leisurely two-day hike, which takes in three major monasteries - Likkir, ,Rizong (also spelt as Rhidzong) and Tamisgang.

Shyok Valley

The Shyok River receives the waters of the Nubra and Changchenmo rivers. It rises from the Khumdang glacier, which can be approached from Shyok. The Shyok River takes a southerly course after it is joined by the Nubra River. Thereafter the Shyok flows into the Indus at Keris.

The river freezes in winter, thus forming an easy access between the Khaplu and the Nubra valleys. In summer, as the snow melts in the uplands, the river overflows its banks and inundates the surrounding plain for many kilometers, at times creating a vast marsh. During this period, the Shyok River has to be crossed on rafts of inflated skin.

The Shyok Valley is the valley of the Shyok River -- the river of death. This is a Yarkandi (Central Asian) name, probably given by the Central Asian traders who ventured on this treacherous route for centuries and perished. The entire northern area -- the region of the Karakoram -- has names related to death. It is evident that this was a part of the ancient trade route from Yarkand (Central Asia) to Ladakh, where many died and only the hardiest survived. The entire route towards the Karakoram Pass is littered with the bones of these travelers

Padum Valley

Padum the capital of the ancient kingdom of Zanskar, Padum (3505 m) is the present day administrative headquarters of the region. With a population of nearly 1500, Padum can be described as the most populous settlement of Zanskar, otherwise a very scarcely inhabited valley. Incidentally, it is only in Padum that there is a community of Muslims constituting nearly half the township's population, its origin in the area dating from mid 17th century. Lately, Padum has become a famous as a major trekking base and a popular tourist destination. Several places of tourist interest in the vicinity of the township can be visited in the course of entertaining walks. The nearest monument is a set of ancient rock carving on a huge boulder near the river bank, just below the old township. These dates from the 8th century and provide epigraphic evidence that the region was under the influence of North Indian Buddhism since ancient times. The Starrimo Monastery with about 30 resident monks clings to a tree-covered ridge above the old town. Across the expanse of cultivation lies the old village of Pibiting, dominated by its picturesque hilltop monastery, a superb manifestation of stupa architecture.

 

Zangla Valley

Lying deep in the northern arm of Zanskar at the end of the 35 km. Long rough road from Padum, Zangla was being ruled by a titular king till his death a few years back. The old castle now in ruins except from a small chappel, occupies a hill, overlooking the desertic valley below. Nearby is the old Nunnery worth a visit for the austere life style of the small monastic community of nuns. An old monastery situated in the nearby village of Tsa-zar has exquisite frescos that should be missed. The village lies mid-way between Stongdey and Zangla. Zangla is the nodal point on the popular Padum-Strongdey-Zangla-Karsha-Padum round trip, which covers most of the cultural sites of Zanskar. The old rope suspension bridge spanning the tumultuous Zanskar near Zangla- a rare feat of folk engineering - is no more in use, but still visible. The river is now crossed by a temporary footbridge for approaching the left bank along which the trail to Karsha follows. Zangla is also the take-off point for the Padum-Markha valley treks.


 

Rangdum

The farthest and the most isolated part of the Suru Valley, Rangdum is an elliptical expanded plateau surrounded by colourful hills on the one side and glacier encrusted rocky mountains on the other. Situated 130 kms South- east of Kargil, it falls midway between Kargil and Padum. Due to its remoteness from inhabited parts either of Suru or Zanskar, the areas wild beauty is almost haunting, while its isolation is near perfect even as the unpaved Zanskar road traverses its length. The chief attraction of this area is an imposing 18th century Buddhist monastery with about 40 monks in residence. Perched picturesquely atop a centrally rising hillock which is entrenched around by the bifurcated course of a wild mountain stream, the Rangdum monastery has the aura of an ancient fortification guarding a mystical mountain valley. The villagers are descendents of the monastery's agricultural, serf-tenants, who do not own any land in the region. The monastery enjoys perpetual and unalienable ownership of the entire valley including the fields tilled by the villagers, the pastures, hills and even the streams. Rangdum also serves as an important trekking base. The most popular trek from here leads to Henaskut near Lamayuru, across the spectacular gorge of the kanji valley. This 5-day trek also forms the last leg of the two week long trans-Himalayan traverse between Kashmir and Ladakh.

Drass

The town of Dras is located in a relatively flat and open space. It has extensive willow groves along the river. In summer this town presents a pleasant look while in winter it discovered under a thick blanket of snow. Dras experiences the lowest temperatures in the valley and with its altitude of3,300 m, this town is said to be the second coldest inhabited place in Asia. The mercury may drop to as low as 40 degrees Celsius below freezing point. Often the small huts are covered by snow and communication with the outside world is cut off.

The Dras Valley is an enchanting valley formed by the Dras River which rises in the Machoi glacier near the famous Zozila Pass. The river is joined in its course by many other rivers and streams flowing in from snowfields in the nearby mountains.

Drass (3230 m), 60 km west of Kargil on the road to Srinagar, is a small township lying in the centre of the valley of the same name. It has become famous as the second coldest inhabited place in the world by virtue of the intense cold that descends upon the valley along with repeated snowfalls during winters. Winter temperature is sometimes known to plummet to less than minus 40 degrees.

The Drass valley starts from the base of the Zojila pass, the Himalayan gateway to Ladakh. For centuries its inhabitants are known to have negotiated this formidable pass even during the most risky period in the late autumn or early spring, when the whole sector remains snow-bound and is subject to frequent snow storms, to transport trader's merchandise across and to help stranded travellers to traverse it. By virtue of their mastery over the pass they had established a monopoly over the carrying trade during the heydays of the Pan-Asian trade. A hardly people enduring with fortitude and harshness of the valley's winter, the inhabitants of drass can well be described as the guardian's of Ladakh's gateway

The river Shigar flowing in from the north drains an adjoining part of the Dras Valley. In summer, as the snow in the upland smelts, the volume of this river rises considerably. It meets the Suru River near Kharul a short distance away from Kargil.The terrain is characterized by rock and stone with the occasional greenish patch formed by willow and groves.

There is a short summer season in the Dras Valley. It begins in May, when the snows begin to melt. Crop sowing activities start late, while harvesting is done early so that the crops are brought in before the beginning of snowfall.

Barley and other coarse cereals are the main crops grown in this valley. Agricultural production is hampered due to thepoor and unproductive soil and the short growing season. Moreover, there is a lack of irrigation facilities in many parts of the Dras Valley.

As a result, agricultural yields are not enough to meet the needs of the people living in this valley. Food grains have to be imported from the Kashmir Valley. Fuel too is a scarce commodity and has to be brought in from across the Zozila Pass. Brokpas are the people living in the Dras Valley. They probably migrated to this tract from Gilgit several centuries ago.

Drass is a convenient base for a 3-day long trek to Suru valley across the sub-range separating the two valleys. This trek passes through some of the most beautiful upland villages and flower sprinkled meadows on both sides of the 4500 mts high Umbala pass, which falls enroute. The trek to the holy cave of Amarnath in neighboring Kashmir, which stars from Minamarg below Zojila, takes 3 days and involves crossing of 5200 mts high pass. Drass also offers numerous shorter treks and hikes to the upland villages.

Suru Valley

The Suru Valley is formed by the catchments are of the Suru River, which rises from the Panzella glacier. On its way to the confluence with the Indus River at Nurla it is joined by numerous tributaries, including the Dras River which flows into the Suru River at Kharul.

Suru Valley forms the mainstay of Kargil district. Lying nestled along the north-eastern foothills of the great Himalayan Wall, it extends from Kargil town, first southward for a length of about 75 Kms Upto the expanse around Panikhar, thence eastward for another stretch of nearly 65 kms upto the foot of the Penzila watershed where the Suru valley rises. Its composite population of about 30,000 -- mainly of Tibeti-Darad descent -- are Muslims who had converted their Buddhist faith around the middle of the 16th century. The upper valley reaches of the valley, particularly around the Sankoo bowl, the Panikhar expense and the higher stretch beyond, present a spectacle of breathtaking features-majestic mountain ramparts crowned by snow capped peaks, undulating alpine slopes draining into wild mountain streams of foaming cascades of pristine water, awesome glaciers descending along the Himalayan slopes to the river bed in riverine formation, Quaint villages of adobe houses straggling dry hillocks surrounded by large tracts of lush crops downward the patches of alpine pastures uphill. The beauty of this region is further enhanced by the sheer contrast provided by the towering peaks of Kun (7035 m) and Nun (7135 m) which loom over the skyline in their crystalline majesty.

The general topography is as rugged and mountainous as most of Ladakh. However, the Suru Valley is relatively more fertile. It extends from the Panzella glacier to south of Kargil town, where the Suru River merges with the Botkul River rising from the Botkul glacier.

The average elevation of the Suru valley is 3,000 m. Winters are very severe and heavy and frequent snowfalls occur, though the Suru Valley does not become as inhospitable as the Dras Valley. The cold season begins around mid-November and usually continues till May. During this period, most of the valley discovered with a thick layer of snow.

As the snow melts, the water becomes muddy, often attaining darkish hue which is quite a contrast with its normal bluish-green shade. The color becomes normal in early September when the melting of the snow in the uplands slows down considerably. The summer season begins in May and it becomes warm fairly quickly. Vegetation growth picks up rapidly. The summer season lasts relatively longer than in other parts of Ladakh.

Agriculture is the main source of livelihood for the people of this valley. In many parts of the Suru Valley, two crops can be harvested each year whereas in many parts of Ladakh raising even one crop a year may not always be possible when summer starts late or there is early snowfall.

The main crops raised by the people of Suru Valley are wheat, barley and millets. Improved varieties of wheat have recently been introduced. This has helped to increase the production of cereals. Some of the vegetables grown here are turnip, radish, peas and black peas. Grapes, apricots and melons are produced in fairly large quantities at Darchik and Garkoon along the lower course of the Indus through Ladakh. These find a ready market in Kargil. Liquor is made from grapes.

Markha Valley

Markha valley, the classic trekking route takes you through some of the most beautiful villages, were you can explore the traditional life style of LADAKH, the crumbling forts and the Buddhist gompas scattered throughout. The meandering Markha River is our guide; we follow it through groves of apricot, willow, popular & Himalayan oak trees and gaze up at the cathedral-like structures perched on the cliffs which tower above us. Along the way, we are likely to spot wildlife such as deer, blue sheep and ibex serenely grazing in the valley. Monasteries hold 'pujas' or prayer ceremonies in the mornings and evenings, prayer flags are strung up on high peaks, monks wander the trails and villagers bring offerings to the Gompas